It would seem that it can be difficult to breed garden strawberries with a mustache. Do not think that I was mistaken in calling strawberries garden strawberries. The fact that we grow really strawberries in the garden, garden, or, as it is also called, pineapple, and strawberries are a completely different plant, which is practically not grown. But we will call it strawberries in the old fashioned way. So about the reproduction of the mustache. Not so simple. I will share my personal experience with you and tell you about my mistakes. 
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The right choice of children and regulation of the shoots
I remember waiting for the appearance of each antennae from a large festival strawberry. On an adult bush, up to 15 lashes can form, on each there are from three to 12 outlets.
Seated everything, and was very surprised when the "kids" a year later gave out small buds, and then the same berries.
My mistake was that only the first shoots were needed for planting. From the rest, the crop will be worse. The more mustaches on the plant, the finer the layering formed.
The second important rule is to choose two-year-old full-grown bushes for seedlings. The older the strawberries, the smaller the offspring.
Although I met in literature advice on picking flowers from bushes, from which they take branches, she always spared berries, her hand never raised to pick up flower stalks. I think that two or three whiskers with double sockets will not significantly affect the yield. If you have the determination, remove the flower branches. Then all the food will be sent to the layering.
So that the tendril does not begin to form new horns, I retreat from the plant that takes root 2 cm. I remove the second, third order shoots.
Trimming on time
For the propagation of garden strawberries, I choose only the July mustache. According to the vegetation cycle, the formation of shoots begins in late May-early June, depending on the weather. I carefully examine the first row of whiskers from full-fledged uterine bushes, root several shoots, you can even plant them in separate cups, the rest mercilessly cut with secateurs or scissors. It’s dangerous to tear out a mustache with your hands, a bush suffers, along with a whip young kidneys are snatched.
For the development of outlets, it takes up to 2.5 months. If they are cut off from the uterine bush too early, the engraftment will be painful, the development will be long. Before winter, the layering should form a powerful root system, lay many flower buds of the next year's crop. When young, immature rosettes are planted in a new place, the bush is formed by a frail, full-fledged fruiting pleases only in the third year.
Too early whiskers separated from the uterine plant do not tolerate winter, can freeze during the thaw. I give the sockets well rooted next to the mother bush, I do not worry in vain. Separate adult plants after 60-70 days.
Seat selection
Strawberries love sunny areas. On shady plots, the berries become small, sour, do not please. The culture is quite winter-hardy, but it will freeze out on snowless territory, where the soil freezes strongly. The recommended winter temperature is not lower than -12 ° C, which means that in forty degrees frost above the plant there should be at least 30 cm of loose snow. If the areas are blown, you should immediately think about the possibility of snow retention.
Spring frosts can damage the first buds from which the largest berries grow. Protection of plantings on the north side is desirable with berry bushes, a fence, buildings. Strawberry is demanding on humidity, but with a high occurrence of groundwater on flooded plots, the bushes bulge in the spring, rise above the surface of the earth on the root bunch, and dry out in the summer. They have to add annually, trample.
The soil should be loose, light, without the roots of wheatgrass, horn, and euphorbiaceae weeds. Always sift the ground before planting to remove even the smallest roots of pests. Add rotted manure in the barrel or compost soil. Strawberries grow poorly after all melons and gourds, well after legumes, cereal siderates (rye, oats), onions, and garlic.
Landing time
Recommended to transplant garden strawberries in August. I usually pick out sockets during the pruning of bushes, the release of old leaves, after fruiting. I noticed when you shave the foliage later, the bushes hibernate worse. When you don’t trim, it’s likely that gray rot will develop next year.
I put the sockets in a basin, pour a little water on the bottom. I know that in this state they will live for several days if it is not immediately possible to place planting material on a new plantation.
Sprinkle prepared wells with wood ash, I throw a pinch of complex fertilizers into each, then fill 1/3 with the prepared soil mixture.
Before planting, I dip the roots of the outlet into the “talker": a thick mixture of clay and chalk. After such a “make-up”, the bushes quickly take root, take root before wintering. They will delight with berries for next year.
